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3 Mayo 2010

I am headed home today—to the United States that is. My life in Ecuador has been suddenly ripped away from me in the matter of a few days and this will be my last blog entry.

I would love to explain to you what happened exactly but as of now my heart is too pained to explain this to you. WorldTeach felt that my life was in danger in Ecuador and therefore sent and forced me home in order to save my life. I disagree. I was tricked by WorldTeach on Monday night to come to Quito for a week—once I arrived I was informed that I could never return to Guaranda/San Miguel, that my contract with WorldTeach was being terminanted and that my visa was being canceled. I did not get to say good-bye to my students, or anything in my life that once existed and now is only fading…

I didn’t know that Monday that it was the last time I would see their smiling, enthusiastic faces…the last time I would teach. The last time I would see my house, the hills, the streets I grew to love with all my heart. I spent a week in Quito crying—waiting for the plane that would officially rip me from the land in South America I consider home. I spent these days depressed, angry, disillusioned, confused—doubting myself, doubting those around me and doubting myself again. Unfortunately, I have not left the place I came to with an open and nervous heart, peaceful and I have not left my students with a complete sense of accomplishment. Behind me is a town in rage and confusion, tears and screams trying to understand why I disappeared and why I cried when I spoke to them in my last hours on the phone. One by one, I heard their anger, their desperation, their confusion.

My student, who is a University professor,  made me cry as I listened to his speech 1 last time. He had asked me probably a total of 10 different times this year to explain to him the difference between come back and go back. Each time–in Spanish or English—we struggled back and forth with our personalities clashing. I thought he understood and he didn’t—2 weeks later we were there again in the same exact conversation. Saturday night on the phone, he abruptly broke out into English from our conversation in Spanish. “COME BACK, Jenny, COME BACK!”. There was a sense of desperation in his voice—in tears I began to laugh. I said, “Very good, Franklin” with a stretching smile on my face. “Entendi, Entendi!”, he shouted. Yes, you did, Franklin. And, I am so sorry to you and all my precious students and my family that this had to happen. My pain reaches deep and long. I will never forget each moment we had together and the feeling that I was infused with in my life there with you.

Even though this seems like a sad ending to this whole adventure,  I have hope that the adventure is not over and that my Ecuadorian book has not been closed. I am waiting to see if the story can continue and who knows, maybe one day there will be another entry to write.
I promise, I’ll come back.

Time Moves

It´s official. I´ll be back in the States July 30th. Everytime someone asks me here until when I am staying, I definitely have grown accostumed to saying, ¨El tiempo pasa muy rapido…¨.

Mama and I with the enormous tortoise that Darwin would eat and ride on...

One of the 13 fascinating finches of the Galápagos in which Darwin´s theory of evolution is based on.

Amazing iguanas on each island.

Baby sea lions everywhere...pure happiness.

I laid on the beach with them...

You know that swimming and hanging out with the lobo marinos was my favorite part. :)

Sunsets and Sunrises in the middle of the ocean on a small boat....

The infamous and amazing frigate birds...

***Please click on the picture to see it´s full size.

A lot that has been happening in my life lately has forced me to think more deeply about certain social issues, about this culture and society. It´s incredible to me, however, how no matter how intimate, personal, and specific the events that have occurred in my life here are, they are always about culture and society and the way that it raises and shapes people and creates a people, a culture, a way of thinking. Unfortunately, recent events have been a negative reflection of this culture and society and have left me in a sad awe of the world I am living in and certain sociological realities. Living in Latin American has certainly only emphasized and taught me more about my field of Sociology and it´s upmost importance in analyzing societal issues and hopefully finding solutions.

Many of us have already heard of machismo, a sociological phenomenon located in Latin America and Latino culture. But of course, machismo is not Latin but simply a Spanish word to describe their experience and understanding of patriarchal violence and culture. Some of us who have heard or read articles on the ¨machista¨ may ask, ¨Does it really exist in the way we read about it?¨.  Now that I have lived in Latin America for 7 months, my questions are, ¨How does it exist and what are the similarities and differences with the unlabeled machismo or patriarchy that exists in the United States and the one that I am experiencing and observing here?¨.

My understanding and observation of machismo here in a small town in the Andes Mountains of Ecuador have been both wide and diverse. Many of the problems we see in the U.S. exist here also, except only that it seems more pronounced here. I was of course shocked and taken aback by how clearly defined and strict the role of the woman inside the home is.. It pained my heart to see how hard my first mother in my first family worked. Just like in the United States, women here suffer from the ¨second shift¨ in that most women here have a full time job and share economic responsibilities with the husband but still do the same amount of work in the home. Never like I had seen in the United States, women here are the only ones allowed to wash dishes, do laundry, touch a broom, cook and clean the house. To the extent that a man does not pick up his plate and put it in the sink but leaves anything he touches where he touched it. They say that if a man does laundry here, he is homosexual and thus in the light of the negative view upon homosexuality here (a huge threat to the machismo concept in itself) I have never seen a man touch a piece of clothing.

I see women here work harder than I dreamt possible. After class, sometimes I speak with the older women in my class and we talk about their lives and how busy they are. They complain to me about how tired they are. Getting up at 5 or 530 in the morning to do laundry, clean the house, and get the children ready for school. Making breakfast and making lunch before they leave to work. Working and coming back home for lunch only to finish preparing it and serve it to all the members of the family. Cleaning the mess of lunch and returning to work. Only to then come to my English class afterwards or take University courses or participate in teacher conferences in order to continue to advance their own education and goals…to return home at 6 or 7 only to prepare the merienda for the family and finish cleaning and taking care of the children and their homework. Of course, we see this in the United States but I feel like in the States we have increasingly been able to create a sense of gray in the dichotomy between the labor and role of men and women in the home. Here, things feel more strictly black and white with less room to negotiate the situation.

To me, something even more difficult to swallow has been the power I have seen men hold here like I have never seen before. One of my good Ecuadorian girl friends here during Carnaval took charge of organizing the choreographed dance for our performance in the parade. She was extremely excited and thrilled to take charge of this for her love of dance and her love of the class. But soon, after 3 days of her hard work and organizing, my 20 year old friend with a 3 year old son calls me and tells me that her husband will not allow her to participate. She in tears and pure frustration from the fights of the day with him had no idea why he would not allow her to. And as we conversed, she was quick to tell me that I couldn´t understand because men are different here than in the United States and that this is just the way things are. She told me, a woman marries here and gives up her rights and has to listen to what her husband wants and her husband has the right to dictate her life. I told her that yes, I understood that men and marriages here are different from what I understood in my life back home but no matter how the societal views are different, it was important for her to communicate with her husband and for him to know that this was important to her.

One afternoon, I went with my Ecuadorian mother to the campo behind my house where people live in small, hand-made houses with their animals where they take care of and live off the land. Many indigenous people live here behind my house. We were recruiting for a neighborhood literary class as pretty much everyone who lives out in the campo (which is an enormous part of Ecuador!) do not know how to read or write. And what I didn´t understand at the time, is that they cannot even write their names. We ran into a woman cultivating her corn in an expansive field who we spoke with about the class and she was very interested but told us we had to ask her husband. We asked where he was and she pointed up. So we climbed up this field only to arrive to a bitter, controlling, angry man. The man evidently had some disabilities and could not hear that well while his wife was extremely with it and intelligent. Angrily, he refused to allow her to go to the class. My Ecuadorian mother insisted for awhile, asking why and telling him about the benefits but he only seemed to get more resistant. Then, the sister of the wife and the husband began to fight so we decided to leave before doing harm. The sister of the wife later found us walking out there and told us that her sister´s husband hits her all the time and if she were to go he would most definitely beat her…that day, I left the campo not enamored with the nature and connection between the people and the land but depressed and angered by a situation so shocking and foreign to my heart.

Just this past weekend, I found out through a friend that one of my 15 year old, high school students is having many problems in her home. My friend went to her house on Friday to practice for one of my oral quizzes and arrived to the house to find her crying and her mom injured from being hit by her husband and my student´s father. They had been arguing because the mother wanted to continue to work and the father did not want to allow her to work, accusing her of having another lover. My friend told me that Sammy, my student, is also hit by her father when the mother is not home. We talked a long time about possible solutions but the mother is too afraid of even greater violence if she files a report with the police and cannot leave the house because she does not have enough money. This situation weighs heavy on my heart and I ponder out windows what can possibly be done to help my student and this woman…I am going to try to have them go to a Woman´s Right organization here in Guaranda but obviously these matters are more complicated than we would like them to be…

In an Ecuadorian magazine I was recently reading, they sited that 8 out of 10 Ecuadorian women are in a violent relationship and suffer from physical, economic, and psychological abuse. 80 percent is a shockingly high number to me. But, when I ask Ecuadorians about this statistic, they all already know. ¨Que pena,¨ they say. Those 2 out of 10 relationships that are not violent are hoping that it will slowly change…but how I ask? But how?

I was riding home on some random bus (22 de Julio, Flota Bolivar, Atenas, 10 de Noviembre…) with bright blue, flashing lights and yellow and red seats with blasting merengue, serenading me in the most unromantic manner. This is what I always do, every night at 6:30.

And like there always is, a man stood up in front of the bus, giving a very formal and elaborate speech. The speech, as fantastic as you would imagine the speech would be of a man fighting for democracy or political election, was about little mint candies. Nothing out of the ordinary. I have heard a diverse set of discourses, lasting anywhere from ten to 45 minutes about red, blue and green pens, cereal bars, strawberry candies, ointment to stop aging, medicine against prostate cancer, mints, chocolates, and chewing gum….no speech any more elaborate than the other.

And as I have grown accustomed to doing, I placed his voice as background noise and stared out the window, fascinated by the unusual clarity of Chimborazo and the purples and pinks of the setting sun. Finally it was dark and the man passed by me offering the candies (you always first must hold the candies in your hand and then make your decision of whether or not they are worth buying…). The mundane creates habit and I quickly and easily refused to even take the  little candies in hand because I knew I would not buy them and well I would rather not even look at them and continue to stare out the window. He insisted and I insisted no…but for some reason as he moved on, I felt a little cold that I had insisted so…but nevertheless, I continued to stare out the window.

Usually, after their great sales, they jump off the bus and they are gone forever into millions of more buses (good evening ladies and gentlemen, excuse me for bothering you on this wonderful night…..again and again). But, he sat on the seats across from me…waiting for Guaranda just as I was.

So, for the first time, I saw him. I saw him counting the money he just made. The money he made fit in one hand….coins of 5, 10, and 25. He counted them carefully. And then, he counted how many candies he had left. Maybe 15, 20. He nodded his head in indifference and stored away the money in a pocket inside of his shirt full of dirt. I heard the change on him shake. Everything he made from the day, the week….the month?

And then he tried to sleep… I kept on looking over at him and in his restlessness I saw him speaking to himself. His eyes were squeezed tightly shut and he was shaking his head speaking softly but with deep conviction.

Was he asleep and having a nightmare? Or was he awake and simply speaking to himself?

I felt sad and wish I had bought 3 candies for 25 cents. But I wasn´t really sure what that would do and I wasn´t really sure why this man was selling candies on buses…How could I know or even more perplexing, how could I ever understand? Staring out the window in confusion and without the ability to ever really know, I felt very sad and felt wet eyes.

He continued to talk. ¨Or,¨ I thought. ¨Is he he speaking with God?¨  He spoke for a long time…..he spoke for a long time with God. But, unfortunately, I could not hear him.

Guaranda Volunteers 2009-2010. Viva el Carnaval! Viva Guaranda!

Dancing in the streets of Guaranda for hours...

I am a bit late on sharing with you the most important event of Guaranda, Carnaval. The experience was maybe one of the most unique I have had here and it was not just for a day, or a few days, or a week, but months. The talk about Carnval begins right after the winter holidays and it is non-stop excitement from there. The entire city was repainted in bright blues, reds, greens and yellows…people are in happier spirits and everytime you see someone (even if it is for the 20th time that week) they ask if you are going to be here for Carnval in pure joy. The children start as well….as much as a month before Carnaval started, children and teenagers began throwing water. For a month, I had to be strategic in the way I walked to work in order to decrase my likelihood of getting hit with 3 water balloons or getting a bucket of water dumped on my head from a balcony. It was fairly unavoidable but developing tactics to decrease the chances was a game in itself.

My co-workers and I participated in one of the big days of Carnval here in Guaranda dressed up in the most obsurd (and for some reason the ugliest) custumes of Carnaval….there were thousands of people watching and we danced through the streets to our rehearsed steps, over and over again. (pictures above)

My favorite part of Carnval though was particpating in a comparsa (a choregraphed dance in a parade) with my students. We rehearsed a few times in my classroom…but something about it felt natural, genuine and in turn, really fun. The music was fun and our dance moves as well. We didn´t have fancy custumes or a fancy dance. We didn´t have a fancy discomobile and just a little sign that said, ¨WorldTeach Carnaval 2010¨ but nothing made me happier than to be dancing with my students and sharing in this with them…after we danced through the streets we climbed into a police truck stuffed with at least 30 people and headed screaming to the University. Then we danced more in the streets all the way to the University where there was music and food. All day, we danced, drank, and ate in the sun….in these moments with my students I felt that I truly understood what the Carnaval spirit and joy was all about.

Dance practice in my classroom!

My students and I in front of our discomobile!

Dancing in the streets of San Miguel with my students!

WorldTeach Representing (I  made this sign with the help of mormon missionaries..:)),

Ecuadorian Ballers!

So, here I am with my Ecuadorian basketball team. I guess it took me moving to Ecuador to play basketball again. Living here has helped shape and change my perspective on sports a bit. I seem to value it more here. It is such a central part of community here that I have wanted to be a part of a sport here in order to integrate myself more in the community. Surely, Ecuadorians are very competitive but at the same time there seems to be a lot of love shared in sports….there is something different here than the way I felt in the States. Of course, this is just a friendly community tournament so professional sports may be different. Maybe sports aren´t different here at all but it just took moving to another country to look at something so essential to culture in so many countries from a different light. I can say though that Ecuadorian customs find their ways into everything, even those things that are familiar. For example, in my 2 basketball games this last Saturday, no one had water or brought a water bottle. We all shared some gatorade type drink from a huge bottle in one little cup….and as we came off the court out of breath needing to drink we passed around the little cup, each person taking a few sips and passing it on. I recieved some funny stares when I finally pulled out my water bottle and drank from it, out of pure thirst and the desire for gulps of water. Even in this moment on the courts, someone my Western individualism seemed to shine.  Here is the wonder of living in another country….you never forget where you are even in the most familiar moments.

Wish me luck as I am definitely an aging woman  who once played but now only remembers!

My naño and me in front of Pailon del Diablo.

I love this picture of David in the Cotopaxi campo hiking...

David and I at Laguna Quilatoa

I was walking home up the same street I do everyday to my house for lunch when I saw a little girl, seemingly startled, pressing her back up against a wall. She was so little and full of dirt. I thought, ¨Why is she all alone?¨. Of course I knew the answer. Of course, I know where I live. But all the same, it still feels strange.

I said hello to her hoping to get some kind of response and very quickly in a tiny whisper she said, ¨El perro me mordío¨. She was pointing to the dog across the street. I asked her where her parents were and she responded, ¨En la casa¨. I looked down and saw a dollar in her hand. ¨¿Y que haces?¨. She was sent by her parents to buy something for the house at the little store down the street that is in someone´s home. So, I offered that we walk together to the store and that  I walk her back up the street towards her home. She quickly nodded in agreement and we went together on our small expedition to avoid the dog, that understandably was terrifying this little girl. And on our walk up together, I asked her questions and she answered in little whispers. She is 5 years old and lives in the campo behind my house.

She told me the dog bit her last week and then, I really understood. She was sent by her parents to buy this product when she saw the same dog in the street and then was paralyzed with fear, not knowing what to do. The store was just a few more steps down but as any 5 year old girl would be, she was too afraid to walk there. But, also, evidently too afraid to walk back home without the product….so there she stood with her back hugging the wall and with big startled eyes flled with water, not able to go forward or back.

I don´t think I first went to buy something for my family by myself until maybe I was 16 and could drive myself there. There were no neighborhood stores and there was no reason for me to go by myself. But, they say here, that the people of the campo sometimes begin the life of an adult at the age of 5 or a little younger…buying, cleaning, and taking care of siblings.  We walked together for a few minutes with my hand on her back. She asked, ¨¿Y donde vives tu?¨. ¨In that house…,¨ I pointed. ¨We live so close,¨ I thought but I certainly have never met someone with a life so different.

The little girl who cannot move forward nor go back.

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